How To Deep Clean And Replace O Rings On Quick Mill Monza Deluxe

How To Deep Clean And Replace O Rings On Quick Mill Monza Deluxe

I’ve had my Quick Mill Monza Deluxe Super Automatic espresso machine for just over a year. I’ve owned two Super Automatics, the Capresso C3000, and the Quick Mill Monza Deluxe. Both have their good points and bad. Overall, each made a pretty good cup of espresso, but the Monza just edges out the Capresso.

I suppose I should post a full review of the Monza, but that’s not what we’re here for.



If you have a Monza Deluxe, you undoubtedly read in the owner’s manual that it requires some amount of preventative maintenance, much more maintenance is required if your water does not meet the WaterSoftenerGuide‘s mineral levels:

  • Clean Machine Once A Week
  • Lubricate the piston and other moving parts (six months)
  • Replace the O Ring (six months)

Now, I think the Italians make a great cup of espresso, but when it comes to engineering  and writing owner’s manuals… let’s just say they leave a lot to be desired.  For instance, the owner’s manual calls out required maintenance, but nowhere does it list HOW to perform it or where to get replacement parts.

Cleaning the machine is pretty straight forward, so I don’t address that procedure at all.  Replacing the O Ring and deep cleaning is  easy to perform.  You’ll need the following tools:

  • Philips Head Screwdriver
  • Long nose pliers
  • Dow Corning 111 Valve Lubricant & Sealant (Food Safe)
  • Urnex Cafiza (Same stuff you use to clean weekly)
  • Cleaning brush (The one that came with the Monza is fine)
  • Replacement O Rings (You’ll need two)

The Dow 111 is available from Amazon and the O Rings are available from ChrisCoffee.  Make sure you have these items on hand before proceeding.

Remove the power cord from the Monza.  If you don’t remove the power cord you’re going to get hurt.

Let’s get started.

Remove the Monza’s top cover.

Lift off the cup holder exposing the chrome top.  You’ll need to remove the four screws and

Top Of Monzathe top will lift right off.  There are two screws that hold the back panel on, you don’t have to remove them.

See how easy that was?  Now let’s open the front door and remove the guards and start working on that piston.

Monza With Door Open

I’m sure you’ve had the door open many times on your machine.  The black thing is the piston cover and the red rubber band thing on piston itself is one of the O Rings we’ll be replacing today.

Remove the dump box and the water reservoir. Set them aside for cleaning later.

Remove the black frothing spout and gently loop it over the top of the machine or just get it out of the way.  No need to remove the fittings.

Remove shield that rests on four pegs just behind the frothing spout.  This shield is supposed to prevent espresso powder from getting in your cup.  It often fails to perform it’s duties.  Just lift up and rotate out to remove this shield.

Shield Removed This is what the Monza looks like with the shield removed.  The piston is just above the brew group.

The next thing we’ll need to remove is the  funky shaped shield that is held into place with a single screw.  You should be able to grasp the metal and wiggle it back and forth while pulling up to remove it.

Set it aside for now.  Get your phillips head screwdriver and remove the black express spicket.  It would be best to use a screwdriver with a narrow neck to remove this screw.  If you don’t have one, don’t worry too much.  Just gently unscrew and remove it.

Expresso Spicket

Set it aside for now.



Next we’ll turn our attention to the piston.  This device is pressed into the brew group and hot water is forced through the screen to produce the espresso.  The O Ring provides a good seal so water/espresso is not forced back out the brew group.

The piston is protected by a plastic cover.  This cover is held in place by a small clip.  You can easily remove this clip with your fingers or by using a small set of long nose pliers.  Grab the round end and gently pull to remove it.

Once that’s done, remove the plastic cover by lifting up.  This exposes the piston and water line.

PistonExposed Piston

Remove the slip by sliding it to the right (or left).  Don’t lose the clip.

The piston is exposed along with the water line.

Notice the cotter pin holding the piston and the small brass coller just below the pin.

The next thing to do is to remove the bottom part of the piston.  This section holds the water screen.  Once it’s apart, you’ll see how dirty the screen is.

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Using a pair of long nose pliers, grasp the round portion of the cotter pin and pull to the right (or left).  You may want to place your other hand under the bottom of the piston to catch the screen when it falls.

Note the small brass coller just below the cotter pin.  That will become lose once the pin is removed.  Do not lose it.

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Here’s what it looks like with the screen removed from the push rod.  That brass coller is lose and will fall off if you’re not careful.

The water line is just pressed into that brass disk.  Gently pull up on the line, and set it aside.

There is a small black O Ring inside that hole.  Take care not to lose it either.

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Take the brass disk (bottom part of the piston) and set it aside for now.

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Here’s the brass disk with the brass ring still on the shaft.

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Slide the small brass ring up the shaft and set it aside.

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Remove the O Ring using a small pick or small knife.   Do not replace it with a new O Ring just yet.  Do you see how black it is in that grove?  That’s oils and other sediment that’s built up over the last year or so.  That needs to be removed before the new O Ring can go on.

For those of you that don’t believe me and put the new O Ring in without cleaning it, your machine will almost certainly jam and then you get to remove the skins and manually crank the piston to unjam it.

We need to remove the screen so we can clean it properly.

Using a phillips head screw driver, remove the center screw and allow the screen to fall off.  If it doesn’t just fall off,

Screen

Using a phillips head screw driver, remove the center screw and allow the screen to fall off.  If it doesn’t just fall off, gently push it off by inserting a thin screwdriver into the water whole and tap the screen.  It should fall off with little effort.  DO NOT FORCE IT.  Soak it and repeat this step.

The manual talks about replacing the O Ring.  It never mentions there are two O Rings.  We’re going to replace both.

There is actually two pistons.  We’ve removed the top piston.  Now we need to remove the bottom.  As you look into the machine, there is a black plastic shield covering the bottom piston.  It’s clipped into place using four plastic clips built into the shield.  Grasp the shield and squeeze.  The shield can then be pulled straight off.  It’s not a tight fit.

This exposes the bottom piston shaft.

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There’s another cotter pin holding this shaft into place.  Use the long nose pliers to grasp and remove this pin.  Take a close look at the cotter pin.  It’s pretty funky looking and you may have to work at it to get it removed.  Keep at it and it will slide off.

After you get this removed, simply push up on this rod and force the bottom piston to the top of the brew group.

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There ya have it.  Another O Ring.  I have no idea why Quick Mill decided not to mention this O Ring because it gets just as much work as the top piston and O Ring.

Just pull it out of the brew group and disassemble the same way you did the top piston screen.  You may need to hold the shaft because the screw goes into the shaft to hold the screen in place.  I had to soak the whole unit in cleaning solution before removing the screw.  DO NOT STRIP THE SCREW HEAD.  Keep soaking until it moves.  DO NOT USE WD40.

Now we have the entire unit disassembled.  Get a large bowl and put about a tablespoon of cleaner in it.  Then add hot water.  Place all the parts in that bowl and allow it to soak for at least half an hour.

Remove each part and using a brush, make sure everything is clean.  Pay attention to the grove where the O Rings sit.  There can’t be any gunk left in that grove or the machine will not work properly.  This is because the old O Rings have actually worn down and the gunk causes the new O Rings to be too big.

Once everything is clean, it’s time to reassemble the individual parts.  Put everything back together.  Reattach the screens and shafts, and replace the old O Rings with new.

Here’s a picture of my parts after cleaning.

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Notice how clean the bottom screen is now.  It was filthy when I started.

Start your reassembly with the bottom piston.  Take the reassembled piston and apply a small amount of Dow 111.

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There may be other lubricants you can use, but the owner’s manual calls for a food grade lubricant like Dow 111.  It’s like $20 for a tube that will last forever and a day.  Just buy it.

Replace the bottom piston and replace the cotter pin.  Again, it’s funky looking so you’ll have to work at it.

Reassemble the top piston by placing the water line in the small hole in the disk.  You may have to use a screwdriver to press the waterline in where it is flush with the disk.  Once this is done, slide it on the shaft and reinsert the cotter pin.  Make sure the water line is toward the back of the Monza.  You may have to fidget with the pin to get it to go through.  Don’t force it.  It should slide right in.

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Reattach the black espresso spicket and metal cover.  Use a  phillips screwdriver to snug up that screw.  Don’t over do it, but it needs to be tight enough to hold everything in place

Replace the plastic cover and reattach the top clip and reattach the frothing spout.

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Replace the dump box and water reservoir.

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Plug the Monza back in and turn it on.

Go ahead and clean the unit then enjoy a nice cup of espresso.

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Let me know if you have any questions!

I hope this helps.

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